Conference Programme

12-14 September 2019 at Loughborough University in London

The following programme can only be attended by those that have registered by 9 September.

Programme Overview

Friday, 13 September

Time         Session
8:45Registration and Coffee
9:30Friday Keynote
10:20Textiles and Architecture
11:10Coffee Break
11:30Textiles and Architecture (continued)
13:30Critical Textiles
14:45Coffee Break
15:00Critical Textiles (continued)
16:30Panel Discussions
17:30Exhibition Reception

Saturday, 14 September

Time         Session
9:00Registration and Coffee
9:30Saturday Keynote
10:20Textile Materialities and Processes
11:10Coffee Break
11:30Textile Materialities and Processes (continued)
13:30Textiles and Interaction
15:10Coffee Break
15:30Panel Discussions
16:20Closing Discussion
16:45Conference Close

/// Friday Keynote – Juan P. Hinestroza


Juan P. Hinestroza, a U.S. Fulbright Scholar, is a tenured Associate Professor of Fiber Science and directs The Textiles Nanotechnology Laboratory at the College of Human Ecology of Cornell University in Ithaca, NY. Professor Hinestroza obtained a Ph.D. from the Department of Chemical and Biomolecular Engineering at Tulane University and B.Sc. in Chemical Engineering from Universidad Industrial de Santander. Prior to pursuing doctoral studies, Professor Hinestroza worked as a process control engineer for The Dow Chemical Company, he is the co-founder of 3 start-up companies, and has served as consultant to major Fortune 50 corporations in the field of smart and interactive textiles and fibers. Professor Hinestroza works on understanding fundamental phenomena at the nanoscale that are of relevance to Fiber and Polymer Science. Hinestroza has received over 8.4 MM USD in research funding (Federal and State agencies as well as Industrial Consortiums) for his pioneering work in exploring new pathways for creating multifunctional fibers via manipulation of nanoscale phenomena.

Professor Hinestroza has been the recipient of a myriad of awards including the National Science Foundation CAREER Award, the Young Investigator Award from NYSTAR and the Educator of the Year Award from the Society  of Professional Hispanic Engineers, The Humanitarian Award from the National Textile Center and the Academic Innovation Award from Cornell Class of 72. Professor Hinestroza has delivered invited lectures worldwide at Universities and Research Centers in over 43 countries and has received visiting scientist fellowships from The Chubu Foundation for Science and Technology in Japan, The National Council for Scientific and Technological Development in Brazil, The Swiss National Science Foundation in Switzerland and the Singapore University of Technology and Design.

Professor Hinestroza’s scientific work has been featured in Nature Nanotechnology, MRS Bulletin, Materials Today, C&E News, National Geographic, ASEE Prism as well as mainstream media outlets such as CNN, Wired, TechReview, The Guardian, Popular Science, ABC News, NYTimes, Reuters, PBS, NPR and BBC.   In addition to his scientific endeavors, Professor Hinestroza and his research group are actively involved in community outreach activities aimed at increasing the number of members from underrepresented minority groups in Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics as well as engaging senior citizens in collaborative and inter-generational learning experiences.

Keynote: Teaching Cotton New Tricks

In this talk, we will discuss examples of several strategies that our laboratory has pioneered to modify the properties of cotton. We have made possible cotton fibers that conduct electricity, kill bacteria, change colours and store complex information. We will discuss how metal-organic frameworks MOFs can be used to create textiles capable of sensing and trapping toxic gases, insecticides and other value-added compounds by judiciously controlling the interactions between the MOF and the functional groups on the surface of the natural fibers. We will also show how to create colour using MOFs constructed using several metals that emit colour under UV radiation as well as the use of panchromatic modifications to MOF structures in order to create colour without the need of pigments or dyes. These examples demonstrate how an “old” natural fiber such as cotton can be used as an engineering material with unique functionalities while preserving its comfort, flexibility and water absorbency properties. The scalable strategies developed by our group create multifunctional cellulosic materials and can be replicated in many other cellulose-based natural fibers.


1 Kim. M., Otal, E., Hinestroza, JP., Cellulose meets reticular chemistry: interactions between cellulosic substrates and metal–organic frameworks, Cellulose (2019), 1-15

2 Otal,E., Kim, M., Calvo,ME,  Karvonen, L, Fabregas,I, Sierra, CA., Hinestroza, JP. A panchromatic modification of the light absorption spectra of metal–organic frameworks (2016), 52,(40) 6665-6668

3 Ozer, R., Hinestroza, JP., One-step growth of isoreticular luminescent metal-organic frameworks on cotton fibers,  RSC Advances (2015), 5 (20), 15198-15204

4 Rodriguez, H., Hinestroza, JP., Ochoa-Puentes, C., Sierra, C. Soto, C. Antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli of Cu-BTC (MOF-199) metal?organic framework immobilized onto cellulosic fibers Journal of Applied Polymer Science (2014), 131,19, 40815-40820

5 Silva da Pinto, M., Sierra-Avila, C., Hinestroza, JP., In situ synthesis of a Cu-BTC metal–organic framework (MOF 199) onto cellulosic fibrous substrates: cotton, (2012), Cellulose, 19,5, 1771-1779

/// Textiles and Architecture

Session Chair – Aurélie Mossé (ENSAD Paris, FR)

10:20 – On Textile Farming: The Interior as an Ecosystem

by Svenja Keune

10:45 – Introducing Fabric Materiality in architectural fibre composites

by Arielle Blonder

Session Chair – Delia Dumitrescu (University of Borås, SE)

11:30 – Productive Draping: The Making of and Research Behind The Performative Curtaining Project

by Deborah Schneiderman, Annie Coggan

11:55 – Wall Curtain. On The Idea of the Soft within the Digital and Fabrication Realms

by Mette Ramsgaard Thomsen, Danica Pišteková

12:20 – Les Petites Affiches : textilisation of architectural memory through the transformation of rubble

by Anna Saint Pierre, Jean-François Bassereau, Aurélie Mossé

/// Critical Textiles

Session Chair – Fiona Curran (Royal College of Art, UK)

13:30 – Envisioning Value-Rich Design for IoT Wearables

by Caroline McMillan

13:55 – New Materiality in Intimate Care

by Teresa Almeida

14:20 – Towards a Postphenomenological Approach to Wearable Technology through Design Journeys

by Pauline van Dongen, Ron Wakkary, Oscar Tomico, Stephan Wensveen

Session Chair – Oscar Tomico (ELISAVA Design and Engineering School Barcelona, ES / TU Eindhoven, NL)

15:00 – Smart Textiles and Clothing: An Opportunity or a Threat for Sustainability?

by Gozde Goncu-Berk

15:25 – From Rag Picking to Riches: Fashion Education meets Textile Waste

by Katherine Townsend, Emma Prince, Alison Escott, Gill Barker

15:50 – WEAR Sustain (Wearable technologists Engage with Artists for Responsible innovation): Sustainability Strategy Toolkit

by Florian Sametinger, Camille Baker, Heritiana Ranaivoson, Nick Bryan-Kinns

/// Panel Discussions

16:30 – Panel Discussion on Textiles and Architecture led by Delia Dumitrescu and Aurélie Mossé

17:00 – Panel Discussion on Critical Textiles led by Fiona Curran, Tincuta Heinzel, and Oscar Tomico

/// Saturday Keynote – Ellen Harlizius-Klück


Ellen Harlizius-Klück is Principal Investigator of the ERC-Consolidator Grant Project PENELOPE: A Study of Weaving as Technical Mode of Existence, situated at the Research Institute of the History of Technology and Science at Deutsches Museum, Munich. Educated as mathematician and artists, she did her PhD in Philosophy on Weaving as episteme in a dialogue by Plato. From 2002 to 2006, she held a professorship in textile studies at the University of Osnabrück. Later she went with a Marie Curie Fellowship to the Centre for Textile Research at the University of Copenhagen. She received an AHRC Digital Transformation Award together with Alex McLean for the project Weaving Codes – Coding Weaves.

Keynote – Ancient Weaving and the Digital Interface: A New Method in Textile Research

The role of weaving for the development of theoretical concepts is underestimated, probably because we perceive weaving as a minor craft with little technological challenge and impact. Where technological progress is measured in terms of gaining time from dull and tedious repetitive tasks, weaving appears to be the archetype of such repetitive work and thus as the more technological the faster it goes. The team of the PENELOPE project addresses this framing of perception by presenting ancient weaving as the earliest binary and digital technology. In explicating the mathematical and computing principles invoked in weaving, we furthermore explore the potential of weaving to engage tacit knowledge that is necessary to make technical and aesthetic choices in coding. By this, we argue for an alternative history of digital art.

The method we explore in our interdisciplinary team follows an advice given by Gilbert Simondon in his famous book on the mode of existence of technical objects. With reference to understanding an adding device built by the mathematician Blaise Pascal, Simondon writes: “To understand Pascal is to reconstruct a machine identical to his with one’s own hands without copying it, even transposing it where possible to an electronic adding device, so as to have to reinvent it by way of actualizing it, rather than reproducing Pascal’s intellectual and operational schemas.” (Simondon 2017, 152)

So we try to understand the warp-weighted loom technology by transposing it into a series of coding devices not only following Simondon’s idea expressed along the device of Pascal, but also referring to his idea of information theory. To Simondon, “information theory is an inter-scientific theory that enables the systematization of scientific concepts as much as the systematization of the schematisms of various technics; information theory mustn’t be considered as a technics among technics; in reality it is a thinking that acts as mediator between the various technics on the one hand, between the various sciences on the other, and finally between the sciences and technics.” (Simondon 2017, 155)

Presentation of PENELOPE Project

The objective of the ERC PENELOPE project (ERC Consolidator Grant no. 682711) is to develop a theory of weaving as part of a deep history and epistemology for digital technology. The PENELOPE team consists of an interdisciplinary mixture of scholars and artists: Alex McLean (Live Coder), Giovanni Fanfani (Classical philologist), Annapurna Mamidipudi (Science and technology studies), Ellen Harlizius-Klück (philosophy, mathematics, and textile/visual art. 

For practical and technical investigations, we established a PENELOPE laboratory in the Museum for Plaster Casts of Classical Sculptures, Munich. This laboratory is open to the public and consists of two warp-weighted looms, loom equipment and tools as well as the pattern matrices, some Penelopean robots and a live-codeable loom for demonstrations. The digital tools are part of our novel methodology and help us to explore ancient weaving technology and its patterning conditions.

/// Textile Materialities and Processes

Session Chair – Berit Greinke (Berlin University of the Arts, DE)

10:20 – Inflatable actuators based on machine embroidery

by Bruna Goveia Da Rocha, Oscar Tomico, Daniel Tetteroo, Panos Markopoulos

10:45 – TEXTILE PROTOTYPING LAB – A Platform and Open Laboratory for the Promotion of Open Innovation and Networking between Research, Design and Industry

by Zane Berzina, Essi Johanna Glomb, Sara Diaz Rodriguez, Anna Große, Malte von Krshiwoblozki, Heiko Wolf, Daniel Heltzel

Session Chair – Lewis Jones (Loughborough University, UK)

11:30 – Exploring a Place-Based Approach to Developing New Materials for Sustainable Futures: Natural Fibre Composites in New Zealand

by Faith Kane, Peter Brorens, Marie Joo Le Guen, Angela Kilford, Tanya Ruka

11:55 – Environmental sustainability of e-textile products approached by makers and manufacturers

by Paula Veske, Kristi Kuusk, Marina Toeters, Barbro Scholz

12:20 – From smart textile to on demand, locally fabricated design

by Zoe Romano

/// Textiles and Interaction

Session Chair – Afroditi Psarra (University of Washington Seattle, USA)

13:30 – Collaborative Innovation: Reflections on Research for Smart Textiles in a Theatre and Performance Context

by Sara Robertson, Sarah Taylor, Joanna Bletcher

13:55 – Light my elbows: a cycling jacket incorporating electronic yarn

by Dorothy Hardy, Katherine Townsend, Matholo Kgatuke, Eloise Salter, Tina Downes, Karen Harrigan, Susan Allcock, Tilak Dias

14: 20 – Sonic Flock; Crowdsourcing, Exhibiting and Gifting Textile Birds for Wellbeing

by Lucy Robertson, Lim Chris, Moncur Wendy

14:45 – Touch Acoustics: Reflections on Crafting a Sonic, Textile Interface

by Lucie Hernandez

/// Panel Discussions

15:30 – Panel Discussion on Textile Materialities and Processes led by Lewis Jones and Faith Cane

15:55 – Panel Discussion on Textiles and Interactions led by Irene Posch, Afroditi Psarra, and Rebecca Stewart